RESTAURANT DINNERS（酒席）

A dinner at a restaurant can be ordered in the form of a table d'h?te (整桌) or à la carte (小酌). The latter is only for dinners of a very informal nature among intimate friends, and must never be given in entertaining an honoured guest or in celebrating some important event.

A full course dinner usually consists of eight large and eight small dishes (八大八小) with the addition of pastries, rice or noodles and fruit. It is a long menu, and is, in truth, a great deal more than necessary. Ten years ago, however, such a menu would have been considered surprisingly short, as, at that time, a full table often consisted of about forty dishes or courses.

The dinner begins with four cold dishes which are placed on the table before the guests take their seats. Cold ham, an important item, is always placed before the guest of honour. Occasionally sliced duck takes the place of ham. In recent years there has been a tendency to combine these four small dishes into one large dish called P'ing P'ên(拼盆).Following these,four hot fried dishes or Ch'ao Ts'ai (炒菜) will be served one at a time. These always consist of something in season.

Then comes the main part of the dinner, the eight large dishes. According to Chinese custom the best should be served first. Shark fins, being considered the foremost delicacy, therefore take the lead. In North China bird's nest ranks equally as high. A couple of other dishes are next served. Then comes the second important dish which is usually a roast, such as barbecued duck or suckling pig. The rest follow in turn, a fish and a soup always making the last items. Chicken soup is a favourite in the South, while the Northerners prefer duck soup. The meal concludes with rice served in small bowls, dainty pastries and a large bowl of some sweet liquid like hot orangeade or almond tea.