第三節 案例及討論

案例一 面料采購商與供應商的溝通

（一）案例概述

本案例從加拿大進口商的面料開發人員Cristina Avram與韓國面料出口商確定面料質量標準并初步談價格開始，到加拿大進口商的面料采購跟單員Janet下面料采購訂單、跟訂單，最后到成衣出口商Gloria開始與面料出口商聯系的全過程。

（二）案例情景

[第1封，2011年6月8日]韓國的helen給加拿大某品牌設計師面料開發助理Florence Boivin和Cristina Avram報價：面料DTK-19349，US$2.75/Y（yard）。同時，告知該面料有3米庫存。

Dear Florence,

DTK-19349：US$2.75/Y，about 3mts（公噸）in the same color as header would be available.

Best regards,

Helen

[第2封，2011年8月6日]Cristina給Helen的上司Warren郵件。她首先要求Warren按照3000～5000碼報FOB Korea價格（Warren在問題后面給了報價）。然后，她要求寄5碼純黑色布樣（Warren回答說需要核查后再報知）。最后，她要求給出面料全部資料（Warren報幅寬58/60英寸，可裁剪幅寬為57英寸，克重為320克/碼，100%Polyester）

Dear Warren,

Regarding item DTK-19349;100%Polyester;58＂

1.Please advise best current price for 3000~5000 yds in US$/m FOB Korea(Warren:$2.75/y FOB Korea).

2.Please send asap(as soon as possible)5m in solid black(Warren:Checking N will advise).

3.Please check and reconfirm all fabric information[Warren：58/60＂（Cuttable width：57＂）320克/碼，100%Polyester].

Thank you,

Cristina

[第3封，2011年8月10日]Cristina詢問Warren兩個問題：一是交貨期，二是CIF Montreal及CIF Shanghai。Warren分別給了回答。

Hi Warren,Helen,

Regarding DTK-19349 Korea:

1.Please advise delivery for 3000～5000 yds（yards，碼數）of DTK-19349 all jet black（Warren：*Delivery for 3000～5000 yds would be 30～35 days）.

2.Please advise price CIF Montreal(We might make garments here in Canada)and CIF Shanghai(In case garments will be made in China)(Warren:$2.85/y CIF Montreal and$2.80/Y CIF Shanghai).

Thank you,

Cristina

[第4封，2011年8月16日]Cristina告訴Warren，她給了面料DTK-19349一個新的面料號以及一個新的顏色號：E750 Jet Black 148。E750的基本技術指標是：100%Polyester；Cuttable 57”；320克/碼approx 235gr/sqm[2]².

Hi Warren,

Please note that we assign Cor fabric&color reference number E750 Jet Black 148 to your DTK-19349，100%Polyester，cuttable 57 320克/碼（approx 235gr/sqm）.

1.Please complete and e-mail fabric tech sheet by return.

2.Please let us know if your office in Korea is able to find sampling yardage available.

Janet will contact you by separate e-mail to place the order.

Thank you,

Cristina

[第5封，2011年8月17日]Cristina給Helen發郵件追要6～10米樣品布，并要求Helen回復面料的洗滌要求、色牢度、易燃性、幅寬穩定性及起球性等面料技術指標。

Dear Helen,

Sampling yardage:We need urgently 6~10m of E750(DTK-19349)for our fit samples to submit to customer for approval.Please let us know when can you send us this yardage.

Regarding fabric tech sheet:mill's care instructions,color fastness,flammability,dimensional stability,pilling.

Thank you for your assistance in this matter,

Cristina

[第6封，2011年8月17日]以下是Helen給Cristina回信并附采購合同所需要的供應商、工廠名稱、合同編號、供應商代號、面料代號等內容：

Dear Cristina,

Please see the FDS filled in.

Supplier Name:DATONG CO.,LTD.

Mill name:DATONG CO.,LTD.

（合同編號及供應商與采購商給面料的代號，以及簽約日期。）

P.O.#006556

Supplier Ref#:DTK-19349

Date:AUG 17,2011

Cor Ref#:E750

（第一條是價格，具體價格沒有填寫。）

1.Price

-Sampling price by meter

-Bulk price by meter fob mill:US$

-Cif factory in city:by meter US$

（第二條是面料成分、克重、幅寬。）

2.Generic fiber content

-100%Polyester

-Weight grams per square meter:235g/sm

-Cutable width in inches=inside selvages or pinholes:57＂

-Only one width to be advised not double as 57/58(only as 57 cutable)

（第三條是每色最低起訂量、每缸最多色差、產地。）

3.Smallest dye lot to be shipped-1000 yrds

-Maximum#of shades per dye lot-3

-Country of origin for bulk:Korea

（第四條要求不含禁用的偶氮染料、每卷布不得有邊到邊色差以及頭到尾色差；每卷布的長度從50碼到70碼的占總卷數的90%，30到40碼的占10%，長度小于30碼的布要經過買方確認才能發貨。）

4.All products must be Azo free

-No tolerance allowed to side to side shading or roll end to end shading

-Roll length must be 90%,50 to 70 yards and 10%,30 to 40 yards

-Any other length must be approved when confirming order

（第五條是洗滌要求：低溫下洗衣機洗滌；不得用含氯洗滌劑漂洗；平鋪晾干。）

5.Mill's care instructions to include:

-Washing instruction:machine wash cold at low temperature

-Bleaching instruction:only non-chlorine bleach when needed

-Drying instruction:do not tumble dry,dry clean(flat dry)

-Ironing instruction:cool iron if needed

[第六條是后處理效果：褪色可以達到4.5級（標準為4級）；干洗色牢度4.5級（標準4級）；服裝可燃性為普通級。]

6.Type of finishing applied to fabric

-Color fastness to crocking:4.5 Grade(requirement:4)

-Colorfastness to dry cleaning:4.5 Grade(requirement:4)

-Flammability for wearing apparel:plain

[第七條為幅寬穩定性：干洗長度增加0.7%，寬度減少0.5%（標準+/-3%）。]

7.Dimensional stability:

-To wash warm+tumble dry

-To wash cold+tumble dry

-To wash cold+line dry

-To hand wash cold+line dry

-To dry cleaning:length,+0.7;width;-0.9(requirement:+/-3%)

-To press steam/shrinkage:length;-0.3;width:-0.5(requirement:+/-3%)

[第八條為起球：試驗結果4.5級（標準3級）。]

8.Pilling:pilling test requirement;3;result,4.5 Grade

Brgds,

Helen

[第7封，2011年8月17日]負責面料采購的跟單員Janet給Warren和Helen的采購通知，她把正式采購合同作為附件同時發給賣方。采購合同中的采購量是700碼。同時，在郵件中她還詢問賣方是否有700碼的黑色庫存，如果沒有庫存，要求大貨的交貨期是9月9日。

Hello Warren/Helen,

I hope you are both well.

Pls(Please)see attachment for FPO 006556.

Need 700y black.Pls advise if you have stock greige or black yardage for immediate delivery?

If no stock,pls confirm 09-Sept ETD.

Pls send P/I confirming details.

Thank you,

Janet

[第8封，2011年8月18日]Warren向Janet解釋說，由于該面料存在紗線起訂量，面料的最低起訂量為3000碼。由于Janet一方僅僅訂700碼，Warren一方要支付紗廠、針織廠、染廠以及后處理工廠一筆附加費，還有韓國到上海的海運費、出口許可費用以及裝卸費用等。Warren一方希望700碼僅僅是Janet一方的樣品單，并請雙方確認是否可以接受USA$3.8/碼CIF Shanghai。如果能夠確認上述價格，請將Jet Black的顏色樣寄給Helen，交貨期在訂單確認后的25天內。

Hi Janet,

I am fine and ask Helen how is she.

1.Well received your fabric PO with tks.However,this item is made of specialty yarn which requires high twist and there is a certain minimum for making the special yarn which is 5000 yds but I negotiated previously with the yarn maker to reduce it to 3000 yds to accomodate your inquiry 3000~5000 yds.

2.Now,your fabric PO is stating that 700 yds only and in order to prosecute this small minimum,we need to pay for the sur-charges to the yarn maker,knitter,dyeing and finisher.

Besides that,additional sea frt fm Korea to Shanghai,transportation charges,export permittance fee,discharging at the CY fees etc would be involved.

3.Hope this 700 yds would be just the sampling orders which could generate the reasonable amount of Bulk orders and pls cnfm(confirm)$3.80/y CIF Shanghai for 700 yds as best.

4.If you cnfm,pls send us the standard Jet Black Color to the following Korea address,attn:Helen and inform us the awb#.The delivery would be 25days after the firm order cnfmation.

Thanks,

Warren

[第9封，2011年8月19日]Janet回郵件告知Warren：訂單數量已經從700碼增加到3200碼（Warren在該郵件中確認該訂單）。Janet希望知道從韓國釜山到上海的運輸時間（Warren回答3～4天）。Janet希望能在9月3日收到面料的船樣，以便能夠在9月9日之前確認大貨布并完成付款。Janet同時要求Warren將形式發票發過來（Warren回答說HELEN會在8月18日將形式發票發給Janet）。

另外，Janet在同一封郵件中讓服裝出口商Gloria與Warren及Helen聯系產前確認樣的樣品布以及面料交貨信息。

Hello Warren,

It was nice talking to you!

Pls see attachment for revised FPO 006556.

Revised from 700y to 3200y(Warren:Well received the revised PO and cnfmd.Tks).

Need transit time from Busan to Shanghai(Warren:3~4 days).

Pls send s/s by 03-Sept in order to have it approved,issue payment and sail on/before 09-Sept,11

Pls send P/I[Warren:Helen will be sending you the P/I tomorrow(8/18).Tks].

Hello Gloria,

Pls contact Warren/Helen for additional information and/or sampling needed.

Thank you,

Janet

（三）案例討論

請討論面料開發的Cristina與負責面料采購跟單員Janet的工作職責。

案例二 面料的質量問題

（一）案例概述

本案例面料工廠與進口商就面料質量問題出現了嚴重的爭議，這場爭議從6月10日開始一直持續到7月19日，最后由于成衣交期非常緊迫，進口商被迫接受面料。

（二）案例情景

[第1封，2011年5月12日]服裝進口商負責面料跟單的Christopher發郵件給面料供應商Vicky，讓他們將合同號為FPO E383-006468的面料發給服裝出口商NFTC的Mrs.Nh。同時，他還讓Mrs.Nh將服裝加工廠的地址發給Vicky，如果她需要樣品布也可以直接向Vicky索要。

Dear Vicky,

Please find attached FPO E383-006468 that is going to NFTC.

Mrs.Nh please advise your garment factory address and if you need sample yardage please ask Vicky for it.

Thank you,

Christopher

[第2封，2011年5月31日]服裝進口商的面料跟單Janet向Vicky索要3碼面料大貨船樣，并要求Vicky報面料大貨的實際數量。

Hello Vicky,

I hope you are both well.

Pls reconfirm if 3Y s/s(shipping sample)was also sent to Montreal office?

Pls advise exact quality ready to be shipped after s/s approval.

Best rgds(regards),

Janet

[第3封，2011年6月1日]Vicky通知Janet已經用快遞發來了3米船樣。

Dear Janet,

We will send you the 3mts s/s by UPS.Tracking NO.is H892 8284 657,pls noted and give us comment once you receipt,tks!

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第4封，2011年6月8日]Christopher通知Vicky送來的面料大貨船樣不能確認，由于面料太粗太硬，顏色也不夠黑。他要求面料工廠重新做后處理，重送樣品確認。

Dear Vicky&Helen,

E383-006468 is not approved.The fabric is too stiff and harsh also the color is not black enough.

Please have the fabric refinish and let us know when we will have second shipping sample for our approval.

Thank you,

Chris

[第5封，2011年6月8日]Vicky不同意Christopher不確認面料的理由，Vicky認為毛料的手感就是有些粗和硬，并讓Christopher將現在的面料同上一季的大貨樣品做一下比較。同時，Vicky認為毛料的顏色也不可能與色樣百分之百相同，能做到90%相同就應該可以。希望Christopehr能確認面料。

Dear Chris,

For wool item the hand feel is always like this,you can check with the last s/sample.this is normal.

Also regarding the color,the wool color match is just 90%same as the stardand,pls noted so we think our s/sample is OK,pls adv.

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第6封，2011年6月9日]Christopher回答Vicky說他已經比較了樣品，以前的樣品比起這次的要軟和黑，并要求Vicky必須重新做后處理并重新確認。

Dear Vicky&Helen,

The hand feel was much softer for the last order and blacker.

Fabric must be refinish and resent for our approval.The customer will not accept it.

Thank you,

Chris

[第7封，2011年6月9日]Vicky同意重做后處理，但他認為顏色還會有所不同。他請Christopher確認目前樣品的顏色。

Dear Chris,

We can refinished the hand feel and resend s/s you for approved.

But for the color do pls noted that the color can't be same on each production,even one bulk goods still have different lot color,so pls accept this color,thanks!

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第8封，2011年6月10日]在收到Vicky重新處理的大貨樣后，Christopher仍不能確認，這次的原因是大貨布有異紗。

Dear Vicky&Helen,

E383-006468 is rejected for the second time.We found that the fabric has lots of white foreign yarns woven in the fabric.

Please check on your side and let us know how we will solve the problem.

Thank you,

Chris

[第9封，2011年6月17日]Vicky讓Christopher拍個照片讓他看一下布的異紗，因為Vicky檢查了他手上的樣品沒有異紗。

Dear Chris,

Would you pls send us the picture of the white foreign yarn,because we check our s/sample there is no white foreign yarn left,pls noted and adv(advise).

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第10封，2011年6月20日]Christopher給Vicky發了照片，并告訴Vicky樣品布不僅有異紗還有抽紗現象。他要求Vicky提供擔保函，一旦面料出現問題面料工廠要負100%的責任。同時，他還讓出口商Mrs.Nh在提貨之前到面料廠去檢驗面料。

Dear Vicky,

Please see attachment for the problem we found in the fabric.Also,we found yarn missing.

Please let us have a letter of guarantee that is there is any problem with the fabric that the mill will be responsible 100%for it.You must do 100%inspection before shipping.

Mrs.Nh if you need to make inspection before shipping,please do so.

Thank you,

Chris

[第11封，2011年6月21日]服裝出口商Mrs.Nh回信認為無論如何檢驗都不會解決異紗和抽紗問題，作為服裝生產廠只能將面料提回工廠，并讓面料生產廠同意退換有問題的布。同時，她還通知服裝進口商，由于面料的問題，成衣的交貨期將會推遲。

Dear Chris,

For E383 white foreign yarn and yarn missing problem,it could not be cleaned up absolutely,though we inspect the bulk in the fabric mill,it could not be resolved and the defects could not be avoid when bulk cutting.So if still need us to use this E383 fabric for bulk garment production,we will keep all the fabric pieces with defects,the mill must replace the good fabric to us.Pls kindly cfm it is OK,so as us to arrange fabric picking up.

Also E383 fabric is long time delayed than the delivery of fabric PO(Purchase Order),we could not keep the garment delivery of PO#53306,the garment delivery will be extended accordingly,pls kindly note.

Thanks and best regards,

Nh

[第12封，2011年6月22日]Vicky給Chris回信表示：（1）Vicky認為他只能去掉主要的異紗但不可能保證面料100%完美，Vicky認為Christopher以前做過毛料應該知道這個道理（Christopher在郵件后面反駁說他從來沒有遇到這種情況）；（2）Vicky同意退還有問題的面料，但是如果服裝工廠剪裁后才發現面料問題則不能退換（Christopher在郵件后面提醒服裝出口商Mrs.Nh安排驗布，如果發現哪一卷并布有問題趕快讓面料工廠退換，他還認為Vicky的說法不合理，他應該保證面料的質量）；（3）Vicky說已經有10碼面料重做完了后處理，如果Christopher需要可以寄去，這個數量會加到大貨的發票中（Christopher回答需要10碼樣布，并追問Vicky是否100%檢驗了大貨布）。

Dear Chris,

1.We will clean the big white foreign yarn,but we can't gurantee the goods is 100%perfect,if the white foreign yarn is very small or which can't easy to see we are afraid we will miss it,this is wool item,it is easy have foreign yarn,you have do this item before,you should know it(from christopher:we never had this problem before).

2.We will be responsible for bulk,but the garment mill should be inspect the goods before cutting.if there is some problem we can replace the good fabric,but if your garment mill cut the fabric,sorry we will not be responsible for fabric piece,pls noted(from Christopher:Mrs.Nh please arrange inspection and if you find no problem then take the goods.If any problems are on the roll please pull out and ask the mill to replace immediately.Vicky it is not fair if they start cutting they cannot stop production if they find defect.You will have to guarantee that the fabric is 100%perfect with no defects).

3.We already finished the cleaning fabric,if you need another 10yards we can send it to you,but this 10yards sampling charge we will plus on s/doc(shipping documents).Pls noted and confirm by return(from Christopher:yes,we need the 10yds to Montreal.Did you do 100%inspection on the fabric?).

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第13封，2011年7月7日]服裝出口商發現面料有很多問題，不得不將面料退回面料廠。Christopher告知Vicky退回的面料有臟污、破洞，布面起毛還有很多棉皮。Christopher讓Vicky回答他將如何重做后處理以及什么時候能處理好面料，服裝加工廠將會派人去面料廠重新驗布。同時，他還讓Vicky送3碼參考樣。

Dear Vicky&Helen,

Noted that E383 was returned to you by NFTC,please look at the fabric and you will see clearly that it has lots of contamination.Also the fabric looks distress,worn out and very hairy and it is picking up a lot of lint.

Please advise how you will refinish the fabric and when you will ship it back to NFTC.Please let us know when the exact date when the fabric will be ready because NFCT will do a full inspection in your mill.Also you will have to send us 3yds for our reference.

Thank you,

Chris

[第14封，2011年7月12日]Vicky告訴Christopher他已經看過退回的面料，這些面料同去年他發給Christopher的面料完全相同，他不認為有什么問題。他反問Christopher是否能夠提供一個標準以便他返修面料。他又抱怨說他用的是與去年同樣的紗、用的是同樣的機器，為什么去年確認了今年卻不能確認。

Dear Chris,

We just received the goods today,but we inspected the goods,it is same as our last year goods,we don't know problem we need fix.Would you pls give us standard then we can according to your standard to fix the goods?We used the same yarn same machine to do this goods.We are confused why you confirm the last year goods and refused this goods,pls adv.

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第15封，2011年7月12日]Janet找到了去年的樣布，JANET認為今年的布同去年的布簡直沒有可比性。今年的面料發灰色，沒有質感，顯得發舊，她將寄一片樣布給VICKY自己比較。Janet認為現在的選擇有兩個：第一，立刻取消該訂單；第二，馬上把面料寄給服裝加工廠，讓服裝廠選擇能用的用，不能用的部分服裝加工廠將不會付款。如果服裝加工廠已經付款，Vicky應該退回無用面料的貨款。

Hello Vicky,

Goods received this year are not the same as last year,there is no comparison.This year's production looks grey,flat,worn out.I am sending you back today swatches for your reference.

We have two options:

1.Cancel fabric order&garment order immediately.

2.Ship back fabric to NFTC on consignment,they will cut and pay only what is used for garment orders,they will not be paying for left over fabric or damages.

If NFTC has already paid for fabric pls confirm by e-mail that you will return value of unusable fabric.

Thank you,

Janet

[第16封，2011年7月15日]Vicky說他收到了Janet寄來的去年的質量比較好的樣品，將其與今年面料廠的面料作了比較，沒有發現什么問題。唯一的不同是色差，由于今年使用的毛是再生毛，染色效果與純天然毛是不能比的，但是可以看到，紗的質量以及布的結構和質量與去年是相同的。當然，不同時間生產的質量總會有些差別，可以將今年的樣品發給任何一個供應商，讓他們來評一評布料是否有質量問題。

Vicky認為，Janet的客戶看到第一次寄的船樣時提出了色差問題，他們已經重新做了后處理并重新寄了10米給對方，但對方并沒有提出任何異議，所以他們認為對方已經確認了第二次樣品。

現在，Vicky建議Janet一方接受現有質量的布料，以便服裝加工廠能夠立即開始服裝生產，還可以將成衣趕出來。Vicky愿意承擔面料的往返運費，大約150美元。

Dear Janet,

We are just received your UPS package and see the two quality sample.I do check the difference.

We do not find the problem of that fabric surface been brushed as garment mill inform us,the only difference I think is color shade,as I advice you before that different lot production the color will more or less have some color shade.Also this is the recircle wool,it is not 100%pure wool,so the color can not compared with solid dyed.But you can see the yarn and the construction and quality are the same.Different time production alwasy will have more or less different.You can show to other supplier if such quality is problem or not.

Also when customer received our first time shipping sample they inform us the color shade,and we are alredy re-finished it immediately.And second time we send 10 mts to u again.But your never give us any comment.So we think u approved second time shipping sample,and we are insepction the goods according to second time shipping sample.

Now my suggest way is you accept the quality and you garment mill can arrange the production immediately.Today is july 15 and they can rush the goods and you allow them to ship a littlt bit later.I can ship the goods to them immediately and I will afford the extra two time local transfer charge(FORM garment mill return to us and send to them again charge).This charge is also expensive,it is more then USD150.So for this small quantity order we afford this charge(it is around USD0.15/mts of extra charge share on each mts)and you extend some days of the delvery i think this is the best way.

Best regards,

Vicky

[第17封，2011年7月16日]Janet回答Vicky：（1）明天請把面料退還服裝加工廠；（2）請確認你們會將服裝廠剪裁后廢料及不能裁剪布的錢退給服裝加工廠；（3）我要重申我們已經拒絕了你們第二次寄來的樣品，我們隨后發了很多郵件讓你們處理異紗，我非常奇怪為什么你說我們沒有給你們樣品意見。

Hello Vicky,

1.Pls proceed to return fabric tomorrow to Mrs Nh.

2.Pls confirm you are accepting to return money for all wastage and for un-usable fabric after Mrs Nh has finished cutting garments.This must be agreed and very clear between Rising Star and NFTC.

3.I would like to reconfirm with you that 2nd s/s was also rejected(see attachment)and many e-mails followed asking you to clean up foreign yarns,etc.I am surprised why you say we did not send you comment on s/s.

4.Please advise telephon NO.where we can contact you for our reference,need office and cellular.It is important that you contact Mrs Nh to discuss claims and make arrangements for immediate delivery.

Thank you,

Janet

[第18封，2011年7月16日]Vicky回答：第一，她認為所有的面料質量都沒問題，如果面料有問題那么服裝工廠就不應該裁剪，所以根本不存在由于選好的部分裁剪避開不好的部分所造成的浪費；第二，請看附件可以證明我們第二次寄了三米布，你們說有白點不接受，我們重做了后處理，并第三次寄了十米給你們，你們沒有給我們任何評論，我們認為你們接受了第三次樣品，否則我們也不會將大貨布發給服裝工廠，并付了運費；第三，我們第三次寄去的十米樣品是我們能做到的最好效果，這是再生毛，白點不是異紗，是白毛，布含有毛，有白毛很正常，這也就是我們不能改善、也不知道怎么改善的原因。所以，我要向你重申，這批布同我們第三次寄給你們的樣品一樣，如果你們接受，我們就發貨，由于整批貨都是一樣的，所以不存在一部分好、一部分不好的情況，所以請你們決定發貨還是不發貨。

Dear Janet,

First:I think all the roll all the piecce are the same as our second time sending sample.If it is OK,all the bulk will be OK.If it is not OK,all the bulk can not cut.So it is not have the situation that have wastage on cutting of some are good and some are not good.

Second:For the enclosed file is we send the second time shipping sample of 3 mts(meters)and you inform us have white dot not accept,and we re-finished it and send 10 mts third time.So when u received 10 mts,u never give us any comment so we think u approved third time 10 mts sample,and we ship the goods,otherwise we will not ship the goods and pay a lot of transport charge.

Third:Third time 10 mts shipping sample is the best we can down as I advice you before that this is made by recircle wool.The white dot is not foreign yarn.It is the wool hairly not the dot.I have check which u send back to us yesterday.The fabric is not what white dot,just white hairly.It have wool,so hairly is the normal situation.that is why we did not know how to improve.

So I have the clarify again and honest speak to you that the goods is the same as third time 10mts sample.If you can accept,then we can ship it,all the goods are the same,not some are good some are bad.So I think u have to make a dicision to ship or not,othewise we can not afford any go back and forth transfer charge of this small quantity.

Best regards,

Vicky

[第19封，2011年7月16日]服裝出口商Nh給服裝進口商Janet和面料生產廠Vicky發郵件催她們迅速將面料發給服裝廠，否則大家前面的所有努力都白費了。

Dear Vicky/Helen,

Pls(Please)ship E383 bulk fabric to our garment FTY(factory)immed,otherwise we really could not catch the garment delivery,thus both of efforts will be meaningless.Pls CFM(confirm)by return,TKS(thanks).Urgent!

Thanks and best regards,

Nh

[第20封，2011年7月16日]Vicky給Nh發郵件說：根據我們電話中達成的協議，我會馬上給你們發送布料，但你們要盡量使用面料并且也不會因為面料發灰、質感不夠、發舊等原因退料或索賠。如果大貨面料有諸如破洞等問題，我們同意退貨。

Dear Mrs.Nh

According to our talking by telphone just now,we will send the goods to your garment mill ASAP(as soon as possible).You will do your best to use the fabric as more as you can and also you will not return the goods or claim due to the problem as below mentioned(white dots looks grey,flate,worn out).If our bulk have another problem,big hole,you can return the goods.But if you return the goods due to white dots looks grey,flate,worn out,we will not pay for the freight charge.Pls noted.

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第21封，2011年7月16日]進口商的老板Mas給面料商Vicky發郵件說：我很遺憾地通知你我將要取消訂單，我們從來也不想浪費任何好的面料，那會導致我們成衣數量和利潤的減少。如果你們到現在還不愿意合作的話，就請取消這個面料訂單，這是我最后的警告，請自己作決定。

Hello,

If this fabric is not shipped out as of today.I regret to inform you as I will cancel the order.We have no intention to dismiss any yardage that is in good quality,which will result in less gmts shipping and less profit for all parties.If you are not willing to corporate at this late in stage,Pls cancel this fabric order.Last warning,your decision

Regards,

Mas

[第22封，2011年7月16日]Janet通知Vicky讓她立即確認并立即發貨，同時承擔一切廢料損失。

Hello Vicky,

Pls confirm fabric was shipped and you will take full responsibility for damages and un-usable fabric.

I did not get an e-mail confirming.

Thank you,

Janet

[第23封，2011年7月17日]Vicky回答Janet說現在面料已經在服裝工廠，她已經同服裝廠的Ding談好，服裝廠不會因為面料有白點、發灰、質感不夠、發舊等原因退料或索賠，如果面料有破洞她將負全責。

Dear Janet,

The goods have arrived in garment mill And as we talked with Mr Ding on sat.they will use the fabric as more as they can,and they will not return the goods or claim due to the problem as below mentioned(white dots looks grey,flate,worn out).If our bulk have another problem,big hole,then rising start will be full responsible for this damages fabric.Pls noted.

Best regards,

Vicky/Helen

[第24封，2011年7月18日]Nh給服裝進口商的Joe發郵件讓他確認有白點、臟污、磨損的樣品，并發郵件確認。同時，他還讓Joe通知他們的QC不要因上述問題拒絕成衣。

Dear Joe,

As per our phone conversation last Friday night:you accepted the white dots,dirty and worn out surface on E383 fabric as the yardage we sent to Cor from bulk.Pls kindly recfm all these by return e-mail.Also pls kindly adv your QC department do not reject the goods due to these problems in final inspection.So that we can proceed,tks.

Thanks and best regards,

Nh

[第25封，2011年7月19日]Joe通知服裝出口商；受面料影響的訂單可以用快船運往美國。

Hi Nh,

For your pos#053313+053311+053306+053274,they should be sailed on Wednesday Aug.10th by Matson,could not be late.

Regards,

Joe

[第26封，2011年7月20日]進口商生產經理Lisa通知銷售員Sandra：訂單53306到達客戶貨倉的時間將晚三天，目前到客人貨倉的時間是8月24日，而不是8月21日。

Hi Sandra

Really need your help.we need to ship these goods on Matson vessel but goods will only come in on Aug.24th but not Aug.21th.Can you please get me the 3 extra days needed?

Thanks,

Lisa

[第27封，2011年7月20日]Joe讓Sandra確認新的入倉期并更改訂單系統的記錄。Hi Sandra，

Could you kindly confirm the CXL（cancel，取消）can be extended to Aug.24th as below requested by Lisa yesterday？Thank you.

Regards,

Joe

[第28封，2011年7月20日]Sandra回答Joe，她昨天與Lisa談過，Lisa讓她等工廠確認了開船期后再向客人要求延期交貨。

Hi Joe,

As per my conversation with Lisa yesterday.She wanted to wait for confirmed ETD from maker before asking for extension.

Thanks,

Sandra

[第29封，2011年7月20日]Joe通知Sandra開船期已經確認為8月10日，請Sandra與客人確認入客人倉期為8月25日。

Hi,Sandra

Maker confirmed ETD Aug.10th by Matson,so please confirm the CXL date to Aug.25th,thank you.

Regards,

Joe

（三）案例討論

（1）對于這場關于面料質量的爭論，你同意進口商關于面料質量問題的觀點，還是同意面料工廠對面料問題的解釋？

（2）在服裝生產中有一些日期很重要，比如Lab Dip的確認期、面料的船樣確認期、面料的離廠期、服裝開裁期、服裝離廠期、服裝ETD、服裝ETA、服裝In House期，請談談每個時期的工作內容并探討它們之間的關系。

案例三 短料問題

（一）案例概述

N818、V659、V672三款服裝使用E287面料，工廠生產完N818、V659款后發現，余下的面料只夠生產874件V672，而V672的訂單數量是1200件，中間商Gloria向進口商代表Lisa提出了一類問題。

（二）案例情景

[第1封，2011年5月16日]服裝出口商Gloria的服裝進口商Lisa詢問：由于E287這種面料被MWW款式用掉了太多，所以可以額外用在V672這一款上的只有1006米。

Gloria給Lisa算了一筆賬：目前已經收面料11287.40米，減去N818用掉2200米、V659用掉5700米、V658用掉3100米、40米做成衣樣品、20米作為面料樣品，現在只剩200米。

所以，目前可以用在V672上的面料只有1206米（1006+200=1206米）。V672的面料單件用量是1.38m/pc（piece，片，塊），所以可以出成衣874件，而訂單數量是1200件，短缺約27%。

由于我們馬上要到面料廠提貨，所以請趕快檢查一下是否還有面料，免得之后找到面料再次增加我們的運費成本。另外，我們需要根據面料的數量訂輔料。

Hi Lisa,

Pls see below from factory and urgent advise if you can accept shortage of V672/E287(PO.52953):

1.The consumption for MWW styles are exceed too much,now we could only get extra E287 fabric 1006m,then for V672 the cutting plan will be reduced greatly!

2.We had ever get 11287.40m totally.

N818:We take 2220m.

V659:The plan to take 1.53×1.06×3512=around 5700m.

V658:We plan to take 1.47×1.06×1992=around 3100m.

Samples making:40m

Sent to Cor:20m

So now we could have 11287.40-2220-5700-3100-40-20=200m left,this is the best result.As last time I said there are some problems about the fabric:such us unstable width,shortage,defectives.

V672,the fabric quantity is 200+1006=1206m,as Cor and fabric mill said there is no more fabric.Now the consumption is about 1.38m/pc,we could only cut 874 pcs(order quantity is 1200 pcs,-27%),that is the maximum quantities we can cut.The final cutting report will be advised later.

3.We will pick up the E287 fabric soon,otherwise,it may cause extra transportation cost if you find more fabric later.Also,we need to make the order of all trims,pls advise ASAP.

Thanks.

Gloria

[第2封，2011年5月17日]Lisa問Gloria為什么會少這么多面料，并讓Gloria把排料圖Marker發過來核對。

Hi Gloria

Really cannot understand why are you so short for this fabric?Based on the estimates we have done and actually produced in the past,we have given you more than enough fabric to produce all.

Please send me your markers so that I can have the pattern room review again but really there is no more fabric that we can send to you.

Awaiting the markers overnight.

Thanks,

Lisa

[第3封，2011年5月23日]Gloria回答Lisa，她認為面料短缺主要是由于面料的幅寬不夠，并請Lisa問面料工廠要回短缺的料或退錢。

Hi Lisa,

Hope you had relaxing holiday.

For V672,factory said when they cut V658 and V659L,they found very serious shortage on each roll(average 3 meters per roll)and narrow/unstable fabric width is even more serious.Now they have left fabric for V672 to cover around 400 pcs while original order quantity is 1,200 pcs.Pls note factory already booked trims to cover 900 pcs as per initial calculation,pls check if you can get more fabric for factory.Otherwise,it may have problem for you as it is too much shortage and factory also facing big loss of the left over trims.

This is really not normal situation.Do you have chance telling fabric mill to compensate fabric or money to Mailyard?

Thanks,

Gloria

[第4封，2011年5月25日]Lisa回答Gloria：她不能允許這么大短裝，請Gloria提供幅寬不夠的證據。

Hello Gloria,

Really cannot afford these shortages in fabric.This is from the new yardage or all yardage you have on hand?

I need now to prove them for this shortage.Can you send me examples of the narrow/unstable fabric?

Please arrange to send today as this is very very disturbing news.

Awaiting clarification if all or just the 1200 replacement yardage?

Thanks,

Lisa

[第5封，2011年5月25日]Gloria通知Lisa工廠已經把兩次提回的料都裁剪了，一共可以做282件，而訂單是1200件，同時她請求將服裝交期延期至7月12日。

Hi Lisa,

E287:all fabric were cut both 1st and 2nd lot.After completed MWW orders,factory could cut V672 quantity as below:

S:94PCS

M:94PCS

L:47PCS

XL:47PCS

Total:282pcs

Compared to order quantity 1200 pcs,it is far below order quantity.I think you have problem with buyer and factory is also losing big money for left over trim.They contacted fabric mill,they have greige on hand and it takes around 10 days for dyeing.If you confirm to make fabric replacement today,the garment delivery will be Jul 12.Pls confirm workable.

For serious shortage,I am waiting some pictures from factory and will send you recap of all the problems tomorrow.

Thanks,

Gloria

[第6封，2011年5月25日]Lisa對Gloria報出的短裝數量非常吃驚，她說她以前做過很多這種面料的服裝，從來沒有遇到這種事情。她問Gloria是否已經將證明幅寬不夠的樣品寄過來了。同時，Lisa確認了新交期為7月12日。

Hello Gloria,

I really cannot be short and cannot u/stand(understand)why you have such a shortage as we have made these type of garments in the past and have not encountered such things.

Did you send me the cuttings from the rolls to show me the damaged fabric and variance in width?

Urgently get what you require to make up the missing quantity.

Re Delivery-noted and confimred you will require to July 12.Joe will send you revised pos

Urgently advise on the above.

Thanks,

Lisa

（三）案例討論

（1）短料的可能原因是什么？

（2）短料對面料工廠、服裝工廠、進口商、最終客戶的影響有哪些？

案例四 多料問題

（一）案例概述

本案例出現了大量的多料，多出的料可以生產3600件。本次貿易活動的訂料方是進口商，而買料方是出口商，出口商是按照進口商的計算數量購買的料。

（二）案例情景

[第1封，2011年5月20日]Nh告訴Joe她多出了4700米Y858，她問是否可以用于訂單PO＃53172/53173 C226P/C226X或者用在下一個新的訂單。

Dear Joe,

After cutting for all Y858 garment orders on hand,there is 4700m Y858 leftover.Could you pls kindly help to check and adv if we can cut the leftover fabric on PO#53172/53173 C226P/C226X or send us a new order to use these 4700m Y858 fabric.Thanks.

Best regards,

Nh

[第2封，2011年5月20日]Nh告訴Joe，如果將剩料用于PO＃53172 Y858 C226P和PO＃53173 Y858 C226X，可以裁剪出3200件。

Dear Joe,

Nice phone call with you just now.

If cutting the leftover 4700m average on PO#53172 Y858 C226P and PO#53173 Y858 C226X,it can cut about 1600pcs for each style,total 3200pcs.Could you pls kindly help to check and adv if it is acceptable,thanks a lot.

Best regards,

Nh

[第3封，2011年5月20日]Joe通知Nh請先不要裁剪4700米Y858，他們正在考慮如何使用。Joe請Nh把涉及Y858的款式的單用量發過來。

Hi Nh,

Please keep the 4700meters,don't cut,we are considering how to use it.

Please give us your unit consumption for each style,C225X,C225P,C226X,C226P,C295 asap.Thank you.

Regards,

Joe

[第4封，2011年5月24日]Joe與Nh確認了單用量后，將數據給了Lisa。

Hi Lisa,

See below,the unit consumption of below styles are:

C225P/C226P-53＂

C225X/C226X-66＂

C295-will offer next week.

Regards,

Joe

[第5封，2011年5月24日]Lisa收到Joe發來的單用量后，發現C225X款的實際單用量是1.833碼，但預訂面料時是按照1.98碼訂的，單用量多了8%，而多出的面料4700米正好占了總共訂料55899米的8%。

Hi Mas,

Please note.

C225P=as per ding below,est is 53＂=1.47 yard which is exactly what Joe has given

C225x=as per ding below,est is 66＂=1.833 yard and we have given 1.98(8%overage)

FYI For Your Inspection，供你參考-the 8%is the exact overage for 4700m as she picked up 55899/4700=8%

Thanks,

Lisa

[第6封，2011年5月24日]Lisa通知Joe多余的料將用于新款，同時通知負責面料的Christopher將剩余4700米面料收為庫存。

Hello Joe,

We will only use up in new style-too much overage to cut to what we have now.

Hi Chris,please add to inventory the extra yardage as this is due to consumption issue

Thanks,

Lisa

（三）案例討論

（1）導致面料多的原因是什么？

（2）多出的面料應該如何處理？

案例五 面料延期影響成衣交期問題

（一）案例概述

出口商得到消息說進口商提供的面料的離廠期延遲了，出口商的跟單員Laura給進口商的跟單員Joe寫郵件表示完不成表中訂單，隨后出口商的老板Clayton又發了一個郵件給進口商的老板Massimo說明完成不了的理由。

（二）案例情景

[第1封，2012年2月28日]服裝出口商Laura給Joe寫郵件說你們向面料工廠訂的面料要到3月20日才到，而服裝的交貨期是4月11日，服裝的生產期完全不夠。

Hello Joe,

Please find the attached contract,the fabric would be ready by Mar.20th.That is totally unacceptable.

Our garment delivery is April 11th,so we can't accept any fabric delay even 1~2 days.

Please help us.Thank you.

B/rgds,

Laura

[第2封，2012年2月28日]服裝出口商老板Clayton向服裝進口商老板Mas解釋為何他無法完成訂單生產：大貨面料在3月10日才能完成，然后面料工廠要寄船樣給進口商確認，服裝工廠還要做成衣產前確認樣供進口商確認，這個過程會花費一個星期。一切確認后，面料工廠還要用2天時間將面料送到服裝工廠，工廠剪裁還要3天，4月7日就要向港口送貨，這樣服裝生產期只剩下10天左右。

Hi Mas,

10 minutes ago,we called the fabric supplier,the final information we got as follows:

E723,the fabric will be ready on 10th of march.Then they need to send bulk fabric for your approval.At same time we need to make PP samples for your approval.If all these procedure can be finished with in one week,it will be around 18th.Fabric send to my factory need 2 days mini,garment factory prepare to cutting and put on line need 3days mini.10 days for us to rush all the garments are impossible.

Pls consider above points seriously,I can't rush all the garment within such short time.

B/R,

Clayton

（三）案例討論

在上述案例中，你認為合理的面料生產完成期應該在什么時間？

---

[1]英寸（in）=2.54厘米（cm）。

[2]本書中出現的gr/sqm，g/sqm，g/sq，gr/sm，g/sm，都是gram/square meter縮寫。