Dialogue 對話 Uma Wang

“The clothes I design act like a bridge –they connect me with likeminded people.

我設(shè)計的衣服就像一座橋——把我和志趣相投的人聯(lián)系起來。”

Fashion Designer：時裝設(shè)計師

Fashion designer Uma Wang launched her self-titled label in 2009 and has since become one of the biggest names in the Chinese fashion industry. Her designs are stocked in boutiques across the world and she now lives and works in Shanghai and Italy with her cat, Umi.

中國獨立服裝設(shè)計師Uma Wang于2009年創(chuàng)立了她的個人品牌UMA WANG，并逐漸成長為知名時裝設(shè)計先鋒品牌。她設(shè)計的成衣在全球多家精品店均有展售。她目前工作生活在上海和意大利，有一只名為Umi的小貓。

Your clothes are almost more art than they are fashion. With that in mind, who are the designs created for?

My designs are personal, like art, as opposed to tailor-made for people. When I began my label, I wasn't thinking about making clothes for specific kinds of people, but when they're on sale they seem to magnetically attract buyers who share my philosophy, and when I meet those people it's like we've been friends for years. The clothes I design act like a bridge – they connect me with likeminded people.

How did you first realise fashion design was going to be big part of your life?

It was my friends who saw I had an eye for style. When I was about 14 years old we were allowed to buy new clothes for the Chinese New Year, and my friends would always ask me to go to the department stores with them to help them choose. They all wrote in myyearbook how much they wanted me to be a famous designer in the future.

You studied at the Chinese Textile University. Were there any teachers there who stood out as a mentor?

My teacher Bao Mingxing, who influenced me a lot was very into the history of design and textiles. That had a huge impact on my education and my knowledge. I always feel quite lucky to have many teachers and benefactors to help me along the way.

People tend to dress in order to represent how they are feeling on a particular day. How do you want someone to feel when they are wearing Uma Wang?

First of all they have to be comfortable. That's a necessity. And it's not just about the way you wear something –clothes have to match the aura around you, your personality, your essence. Youhave to let the clothes enhance who you really are.

Who would you most like to dress?

The ordinary people, the women in our society. I want to give them confidence. That's such a significant part of my job: empowering the everyday woman rather just focusing on the famous people. Some of my customers have told me that my garments feel like home. I like to think of my clothes as being a sort of protection, an armour.

Q: How have you seen Shanghai's attitude to fashion change in the last 10 years?

There have been tremendous changes. Shanghai Fashion Week, for example, is now a landmark for the Chinese design industry and excels itself every year. The energy of these young designers is incredible and so inspiring. It means there is energy in our future.

“Clothes have to match the aura around you, your personality, your essence.

衣服要跟你的氣質(zhì)、整個人的狀態(tài)相襯。”

你設(shè)計的服裝更像是一種藝術(shù)品的存在，他們是為誰而設(shè)計的呢?

我做設(shè)計的時候確實挺像藝術(shù)創(chuàng)作的，比起幫別人去定制，更像是我個人、自我的一種表達。我最開始創(chuàng)立UMA WANG的時候，沒多想這是為哪類人設(shè)計的。但當(dāng)這些服裝面向大眾的時候，就會發(fā)現(xiàn)它們在吸引著一群跟我哲學(xué)理念相通的人，就像多年未見的老朋友一樣。我的設(shè)計就像一座橋—把我和志趣相投的人聯(lián)系起來。

什么時候你開始意識到服裝設(shè)計將成為你生命中特別重要的一部分?

最開始是我的朋友們發(fā)現(xiàn)了我的設(shè)計天賦。那時候我才14歲，當(dāng)時每到過年才有新衣服可以穿，我的朋友們置辦新衣的時候總會喊上我，一起幫忙拿主意。大家寫畢業(yè)紀念冊的時候還給我留言，希望未來我能成為著名服裝設(shè)計師，所以從那時起吧，漸漸開始有了做服裝設(shè)計想法。

你在東華大學(xué)學(xué)習(xí)的時候，有沒有對你影響特別深刻的人?

包銘新老師吧，前段時間還和他見面。包老師教的主要都是時裝、面料、歷史方面的內(nèi)容，對我知識面和對設(shè)計的認知影響挺深的。我一直覺得自己運氣很好，不同時期總有良師益友和貴人相助。

人們常常通過不同的著裝來表達自我，當(dāng)人們穿著UMA WANG的時候，你希望他們感受到什么?

我覺得首先應(yīng)該是舒適吧，這個是必須。而且衣服要跟你的氣質(zhì)、整個人的狀態(tài)相襯，衣服應(yīng)該幫助把更本真的自我展現(xiàn)出來。

你最希望和誰分享你的設(shè)計?

我們身邊的普通人，特別是女性。我希望我設(shè)計的衣服能為她們帶給力量和自信。比起為明星設(shè)計服裝，如果能更多地為我們身邊的普通女性賦能，我的工作也會產(chǎn)生更豐富維度的意義。有些客人跟我說，穿上我的衣服感覺像在家一樣自在，我想這些衣服就像是柔軟的盔甲包裹，守護著她們。

上海乃至全中國，近十年的時尚潮流發(fā)生了很大的變化，你是怎么看的呢?

改變太大了，特別是上海時裝周，這么多年來，不斷地蛻變升級，可以說是成為了中國時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的一個標桿。我也特別欣喜能看到這么多年輕設(shè)計師不斷涌現(xiàn)，而且他們的作品完成度都很成熟，他們的發(fā)展代表著中國時尚界的未來。