- 微觀內蒙古（漢英版）
- 莫久愚
- 11544字
- 2020-08-19 16:42:52
歷史·尋蹤
History and Exploration
攝影：達楞
內蒙古博物院
Inner Mongolia Museum
文：莫久愚
中國民族地區最早建立的博物館，藏品達12萬余件（套）。擁有從2.5億年前到100萬年前的古生物化石標本，幾乎沒有缺環。館藏查干諾爾龍是亞洲最大的白堊紀恐龍，中國古代北方游牧民族文物收藏是該館特色，蒙古族文物的藏品質量、數量位居中國同類博物館之首。認識內蒙古，可以從這里開始。
This is the earliest museum established in Chinese minority areas, with a collection of more than 120,000 pieces. It has fossil specimens from 250 million to 1 million years old, almost without a missing link. It also has a specimen of the Nurosaurus (N. qaganesis), the largest cretaceous dinosaur in Asia. Its real speciality is that of cultural collections of the nomadic herders of ancient northern China. Its specimens of Mongolian cultural artefacts are the most in number and best in quality in China. If you want to understand Inner Mongolia, this is a good place to start.
攝影：孔群
中華文明起源的地方
The birthplace of Chinese civilization
文：莫久愚
敖漢旗曾是遠古先民活動最密集的地方。這個小縣城里已發現古代遺址4000余處，敖漢旗博物館擁有文物6000余件，揭取的遼墓壁畫達80余幅，館藏文物的級別和數量在中國的縣級博物館中位居第一。這里已經成為國內專家們尋找中華文明起源的重點區域。
Aohan Banner was in ancient times the home to the largest concentration of activities among the people. This small county-level city has yielded more than 4,000 archaeological sites, and the Aohan Banner Museum has more than 6,000 articles, more than 80 Liao tomb murals, and in regard to the quality and quantity, its collection ranks first among county-level museums in China. This place has already become a major point of interest for experts in China looking into the origins of Chinese civilization.
河套人
Hetao Man
文：莫久愚
薩拉烏蘇河兩岸的砂崖，忠實記錄著50萬年來鄂爾多斯高原的氣候變遷和地質變化。1922年，法國神父桑志華、比利時學者德日進在這里發現了一枚晚期智人的鏟形門齒化石，距今7萬年左右，那正是亞洲現代人種形成的關鍵時期。鏟形門齒是中國人獨有的特征。這枚門齒的主人后來被我國考古學家裴文中命名為“河套人”。
The sand cliffs of the Sara Usu River faithfully preserve information about the climate and geological shifts on the Ordos highlands over the past 500,000 years. In 1922, French priest émile Licent and Belgian scholar Teilhard de Chardin found a fossilized shovel-shaped incisor from a late Homo sapiens, from approximately 70,000 years ago, which was a critical time for the development of the modern Asian human species. The shovel-shaped incisor is a physiological trait unique to the Chinese people. Later, Chinese archaeologist Pei Wenzhong named the owner of this tooth “Hetao Man”.
“中華第一龍”
“China’s First Dragon”
文：張阿泉
1971年，翁牛特旗牧民張鳳祥在山上拾到一個“廢鐵鉤”，給孩子當玩具，不想磨光后竟是一條碧玉龍。這塊碧玉龍被旗文化館花30元收購，存放在一個不起眼的地方。1984年碧玉龍被選中進京參展，經沈從文、蘇秉琦先生鑒定為 “史前中華龍”，后被譽為“中華第一龍”。如今它展出的保金就高達10億元人民幣。
In 1971 in the Ongniud Banner, a herder named Zhang Fengxiang picked up a “broken iron hook” in the mountain and took it home to give to his kid as a toy. After he polished it, he discovered it was a jade dragon. The banner cultural relics authority bought it off him for 30 yuan, and stored it away nowhere special in particular. In 1984 it was selected to be exhibited in Beijing. Shen Congwen and Su Bingqi determined it was a prehistoric Chinese dragon, and it became famous as being “China’s First Dragon”. Now when it is exhibited, it’s insured for as high as 1 billion yuan.
攝影：孔群
“華夏第一村”
“The First Village in China”
文：莫久愚
敖漢旗大窩鋪村的一處坡地上，矗立著“華夏第一村”牌樓，只是“村民”早已遠去。“村”內分布著興隆洼文化、紅山文化及以后的房屋遺址。距今8200年至3600年間，這里均有先民居住。在此發現過世界上最古老的玉器，出土的骨笛被認定為世界第一件樂器，“蚌飾裙”則是中國現存最早的服飾。
On a slope in Dawopu Village in Aohan Banner there is an archway that says “The First Village in China” upon it, even though the “village residents” had gone long ago. Within the village there are remains of the Xinglongwa, Hongshan and later cultures. From 8,200 to 3,600 years ago, people lived here continuously. Here, the oldest Chinese jadewares have been discovered, as well as a bone flute that is recognised as the world’s oldest instrument, and a clamshell-made skirt which is China’s oldest article of clothing in existence.
攝影：于海永
最早的牙科手術
Earliest dental surgery
文：張阿泉
2003年，赤峰市興隆洼文化興隆溝遺址發掘工作結束后，科研人員在M24墓主人頭骨右側兩顆頜牙上發現有鉆孔，系糙質人工鉆磨，旨在減輕蛀牙疼痛。這表明在距今8000年前就已有牙醫，這也是中國史前人類最早的一例牙科手術。
In 2003, at the Xinlonggou site in Chifeng City, which is an example of Xinlongwa culture, when excavations had finished, researchers noticed holes drilled into two teeth on the right side of the head of the owner of the M24 grave site. Roughly executed by a primitive drill, they would have been used to relieve the pain from a toothache. This shows that dentistry was being practiced 8,000 years ago, and is the earliest evidence of dental work by prehistoric Chinese.
世界最早的人工栽培谷物
The world’s first artificially cultivated grain
文：張阿泉
劍橋大學植物考古學家馬丁·瓊斯說：“敖漢旗興隆溝遺址谷子的出土，證明了谷子最早產于西遼河上游地區，同美洲的玉米、馬鈴薯一樣，人工栽培的谷子對世界文化的發展有著同樣杰出的貢獻。同時，歐洲的谷子很可能就是由西遼河上游逐步西移而廣為耕作的。”
Martin Jones, a researcher specialized in archaeobotany at Cambridge University says: “In the remains of the Xinglonggou site in Aohan Banner millet seeds were unearthed, which proves that the earliest millet was artificially cultivated near the upper reaches of the Xiliao River, which made a huge contribution to the culture and development of the world, just like maize and potatoes from America. At the same time, the millet cultivated in Europe are possibly the result of the gradual migration of tillage from this area westward.
匈奴金冠
Gold crown of the Hun
文：蘇懷亮
1972年，76歲的鄂爾多斯老人王美子在杭錦旗阿魯柴登沙窩子里挖土龍骨換零花錢時，挖出不少三棱形銅箭頭和一根頭上有金片的鐵棍，接著又發現了更多的金銀物件。王老漢認為這是廟宇上的東西，不可自留，就把這些器物交公。這一交，內蒙古博物院多了一件鎮館之寶——匈奴王金冠。
In 1972, when 76-year-old Wang Meizi was looking in the sands of Hanggin Banner for fossil fragments to sell for spending money, he found some triangular pyramid shaped copper arrowheads and an iron rod with gold plates on one end. He then found more gold and silver artefacts. Believing that these were from a temple, this old man knew it was ominous to keep them, and thus handed them over to the government. In doing so, he gave the Inner Mongolia Museum a most precious artefact—a gold crown of the Hun.
攝影：孔群
秦漢故跡
Traces of Qin and Han Dynasties
文：莫久愚
內蒙古可能是保有秦漢地面遺跡最多的省區。除了秦漢長城外，還有大批的漢城遺址。古詩文中的居延塞、雞鹿塞、高闕塞、光祿塞等名稱，在這里絕不只是象征邊地的意象符號，而是真真切切的現實存在。在內蒙古西部沙漠至陰山、黃河間，可以尋找“秦時明月漢時關”的意趣。
Inner Mongolia may top other provinces and regions in China in possessing the most remains of Qin and Han Dynasties. In addition to the Qin and Han segments of the Great Wall, there are also a large number of ruins of Han cities. The Juyan, Jilu, Gaoque, Guanglu and other frontier fortresses, famous from ancient poems are not just symbolic here, but actually exist. From the deserts in the west to areas between Yinshan Mountains and the Yellow River, one can find many historical sites from these two dynasties.
攝影：莫久愚
兩千年前的“高速公路”
2,000-year-old expressway
文：莫久愚
在鄂爾多斯漫賴草原上，可以看到很多被稱作“古路豁子”的遺跡，那是2000多年前秦始皇修建的從咸陽至陰山腳下的“秦直道”孑遺，是連接關中和草原地帶的快速通道。秦始皇死后，運載他遺體的車隊經此路返回關中；司馬遷曾陪侍漢武帝沿此道回到長安；遠嫁匈奴的王昭君也是從這里出塞的。
On the Manlai Grassland of Ordos, “the remains of the old road” called by locals can be seen everywhere. This refers to the traces of the “Qin Express” built by the First Emperor of Qin Dynasty between Xianyang and the foot of Yinshan Mountains, a quick route connecting the central Shaanxi Plain with the grasslands. After the First Emperor died, his body was transported by cart along this road. Sima Qian accompanied and served the Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty upon this route to Xi’an, and when Wang Zhaojun married a Hun monarch, she travelled upon this route too.
居延古塞
Juyan Fortress
文：莫久愚
額濟納河攜帶著歷史的記憶，奔向沙漠中古老的居延海。沿河床散布著一百多座傾圮的古代烽燧，在夕陽的斜暉里，烽燧西側殘高只有十幾厘米的古塞墻遺存若隱若現，這就是漢代的居延塞。這里出土的幾萬枚漢簡是中國二十世紀四大考古發現之一，催生了我國學術界一個專門的學問——簡牘學。
The Ejin River carries history upon it as it runs towards the Juyan Sea, a lake in the desert. Along the river bank there are more than a hundred ruined signal towers, and as the sun sets, the ruined wall of the fort, only over ten centimetres high, seems like it may be there and may not. This is the Han Dynasty Juyan Fortress. Tens of thousands of Han Dynasty inscribed bamboo slips have been unearthed here, one of China’s four biggest archaeological finds of the 20th century, which sparked the development of a new academic field dedicated to the study of inscribed bamboo and wooden slips.
攝影：劉兆和
縣級士官的待遇
A county-level warden’s salary
文：莫久愚
居延遺址中有一座邊長23米的正方形鄣城，外接一個邊長約46米的屯兵院落。這里曾出土12000多枚漢簡，被譽為漢簡寶庫。這里的最高長官甲渠塞侯是中下級軍官，相當于縣級待遇，月俸1200錢。據漢簡中記錄的當時物價折算，他的月工資可以買100公斤的肉或680公斤未去殼的小米。
At the remains of the Juyan Fortress there is a square fortification, 23 metres each the side. Outside of it, there is an approximately 46-metre long compound in which troops were stationed. Here, more than 12,000 precious Han Dynasty inscribed bamboo slips were unearthed, an amazing find. Here the highest-ranking official was a lower-level military officer, who was paid a county-level salary: 1,200 coins a month. According to the information contained in the bamboo slips, this was calculated to be enough to buy 100 kilograms of meat or 680 kilograms of unshelled millet each month.
黃河沿岸的昭君墓
Wang Zhaojun’s Graves upon the Yellow River
文：莫久愚
內蒙古有多座昭君墓。歷史學家翦伯贊說：“王昭君究竟埋葬在哪里，這件事并不重要，重要的是為什么會出現這樣多的昭君墓。”這些“墓”都分布在黃河沿岸，都是農田與牧場交匯重疊的地方，也就是農夫和牧人接觸最頻繁、最密切的地方，王昭君是他們的共同話題，她象征著和平、和解、和睦……
There are many “Wang Zhaojun’s Graves” in Inner Mongolia. Historian Jian Bozan says: “It’s not really important where the actual grave of Wang Zhaojun is. What’s important is why there are so many of these gravesites.” These graves are all distributed upon the banks of the Yellow River, all at places where agricultural and pasturing areas intersect. These are the places where herders and farmers come into contact the most, and for them Wang Zhaojun is a common topic. To them, she symbolizes peace, reconciliation, and harmony...
“中國歷史的后院”
The “backyard” of Chinese history
文：莫久愚
大興安嶺濃密的森林隱藏著諸多的歷史秘密。史學家翦伯贊曾把這片廣袤的山林譽為中國歷史“幽靜的后院”。建立過北魏、遼、元王朝的鮮卑人、契丹人、蒙古人，他們的祖先都曾在大興安嶺的密林和山地草原中生活過。他們一撥撥地走出山林，也一次次改變了中國歷史的走向。
In the dense forests of the Greater Hinggan Range there are many hidden historical secrets. Historian Jian Bozan once called this area the “quiet backyard” of Chinese history. The founders of the Northern Wei, Liao, and Yuan Dynasties—the Xianbei, Khitan, and Mongolian people all have ancestors who lived in the dense forests or on the mountain grasslands of the Greater Hinggan Range. As they walked out of the mountains, they changed Chinese history each time.
北魏王朝的歷史搖籃——嘎仙洞
Gaxian Cave—the cradle of the Northern Wei Dynasty
文：莫久愚
鄂倫春旗境內大興安嶺一個少見的天然洞穴，1800年前生活在這里的拓跋人開始了漫長的南下歷程。他們越過陰山進入呼和浩特平原，卷入了“十六國”動蕩的歷史旋渦，但他們沒有讓自己成為又一個行色匆匆的歷史過客，而是變作中國北方大地的主人。接著又是南下、南下，直至融入中原大地。
Gaxian Cave is a rare natural cave, situated in the Greater Hinggan Range within the borders of Oroqen Banner, that was inhabited 1,800 years ago by Xianbei people who would go on to travel south and found the Northern Wei Dynasty. When they crossed the Yinshan Mountains and entered the plains of Hohhot, they became embroiled in the conflicts of the “Sixteen Kingdoms”, but they didn’t let themselves become those who simply passed through the history, instead they became the rulers of Northern China. They then went further and further south, and gradually integrated into the community of the Central Plains of China.
草原“第一都”
The “first capital” on the grasslands
文：莫久愚
盡管學者們對于“都城”的概念有著規范的定義，但呼和浩特和林格爾縣人卻執著地認為，本縣的土城子遺址是歷史上第一座草原都城。因為1600多年前，拓跋鮮卑人就是從這里開始統一中國的北部，北魏王朝最早的立足點也是在這里。當地建有一座遺址博物館——盛樂博物館，述說著這段歷史。
Although scholars may have a specific definition for what constitutes as “capital city”, the people of Horinger County in Hohhot strongly believe that the remains of Tuchengzi in the county is the first capital on the grasslands in history. 1,600 years ago, when the Tuoba tribe of the Xianbei people began to unify the northern part of China, the earliest capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty was established here. There’s a museum for the ruins here, Shengle Museum, which tells their history.
敕勒川，陰山下
Chile Plain, at the foot of Yinshan Mountains
文：莫久愚
北魏時代，陰山以南黃河內外的廣袤土地從秦漢時期的農田又變成了牧場。北魏拓跋人把大批的敕勒部落遷到陰山南面放牧生活，《敕勒歌》所描述的正是那時的場景。今天的呼包二市交界處，有一個名曰“哈素海”的天然湖泊，地勢平闊，泛舟湖上，北望陰山，南眺黃河，仍有幾分“天蒼蒼，野茫茫”的感覺。
During the Northern Wei Dynasty, the vast and wide lands south of Yinshan Mountains and along the banks of Yellow River transitioned from farmland in Qin and Han Dynasties to pastures. The Tuoba people, rulers of the Northern Wei Dynasty, sent large numbers of people of Chile tribe to the south of Yinshan Mountains to live as herders. The Chile Song describes the scene at the time. In present day between Hohhot and Baotou, there is a natural lake called the “Hasu Sea”, surrounded by flat land. When one goes boating upon it, one can see Yinshan Mountains to the north, and the Yellow River to the south. It’s a sight of open skies and vast landscapes, just like what is described in the old song.
攝影：高雪峰
“帝王之鄉”
“Home of emperors”
文：莫久愚
武川縣得名于北魏時的武川軍鎮，出身于此的將領及其后代曾長期主導隋唐時期的政治格局。北周的開國皇帝宇文泰出生于武川，隋、唐兩代開國皇帝和皇后的祖輩都出自武川。清代趙翼曾感慨：“區區一偏僻彈丸之地，出三代帝王……豈非王氣所聚？”所以當地人自稱武川是“帝王之鄉”，并為此自豪。
The name of Wuchuan County comes from the Wuchuan Fortress of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The generals born here and their descendants would later go on to direct the politics of the Sui and Tang Dynasties. The founding emperor of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, Yuwen Tai, was born in Wuchuan, and the ancestors of the emperors and empresses who founded the Sui and Tang Dynasties were born here too. Zhao Yi of the Qing Dynasty remarked: “Mustn’t there be something special about this tiny out of the way area, to yield up emperors of three dynasties?” Thus, the locals call Wuchuan “home of emperors”, and are proud of its history.
額濟納黑城遺址
The remains of Khara-Khoto in Ejin
文：莫久愚
西夏人建立了這座軍城，蒙古人把它變成了絲綢之路上的鬧市，卻沒有發現隱藏在該城地下的秘密。二十世紀初，俄國軍官科茲洛夫的幾次盜掘使大量的西夏手稿、書籍、卷軸、佛像面世，轟動國際學術界。100多年來，這個黃沙中的城市的影像，經常出現在國內外的探險雜志和地理刊物上。
Built as a fortified city by the Xixia Dynasty, the Mongolians transformed it into a busy market town on the Silk Road, but didn’t know of the secrets beneath it. At the start of the 20th century, Russian explorer Kozloff robbed the ancient site a few times, unearthing large amounts of manuscripts, books, scrolls, and Buddhist statues of Xixia Dynasty, rocking the international archaeological community. For more than a hundred years, images of the city in the yellow sand has frequently appeared in exploration and geographic magazines both in China and abroad.
攝影：劉兆和
遼大明塔
Daming Tower of Liao Dyansty
文：莫久愚
這座位于赤峰市遼中京遺址的八角密檐式實心磚塔，高80．22米，周長112米，是中國現存遼塔中保存最好、體積最大的。大約建于1098年。它與北京廣安門外的天寧寺塔極為相似，除基座明顯高大外，其他部位比例結構大致一樣。天寧寺塔建于遼晚期，是北京現存建筑年代最早、體量較大的古建筑之一，但比起大明塔來，無論是體量還是年齡都是“小字輩”。
Daming Tower, situated in the remains of the Middle Capital of the Liao Dynasty, in present Chifeng City, is solid octagonal tower built of bricks, with 80.22 metres tall and 112 metres around. It’s the best-preserved and largest tower from the Liao Dynasty in China, built around the year 1098. It’s similar to the tower at Tianning Temple west of Guang’anmen in Beijing, and quite smiliar in construction, except that it’s clearly larger at the base. The tower at Tianning Temple was built in the late Liao Dynasty, and is the earliest and one of the largest old buildings in Beijing, but compared with the Daming Tower, in terms of either age or size, it is still a “junior”.
白塔
White Tower
文：莫久愚
白塔，其實只是俗稱，塔身的匾額寫著“萬部華嚴經塔”。仿佛是天外來物，孤零零地坐落在呼和浩特市區邊上。原先它并不孤獨，身邊是遼代的豐州城。塔內可見元明時代人們隨手題寫刻畫的文字，據說在磚縫里發現過元代香客留下的一張小面額元代紙幣，是現在世界上存世最早的紙幣實物。
“White Tower” is actually a folk name. Upon the tower there is a plaque that reads “Tower of the Myriad Huayan Buddhist Sutras”. It looks like it’s from another place, standing lonely there at the edge of Hohhot. It originally wasn’t lonely at all, being surrounded by the Liao Dynasty city of Fengzhou. Within the tower one can see carvings from people of the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. It’s said that within the cracks between the bricks a Yuan Dynasty pilgrim left a small-denomination note of paper money, which is the world’s oldest extant paper currency preserved now.
攝影：孔群
攝影：王正
慶州白塔
White Tower of Qingzhou
文：莫久愚
巴林右旗遼慶州城遺址綠草地上的白塔，建于遼興宗重熙年間，是遼塔中的精品，潔白纖麗、高貴清秀。遼興宗的生母章宣皇太后與她寵愛的小兒子一度挑戰遼興宗的皇權地位。母子和好后，遼興宗在母親當初被幽禁的地方敕令“特建”了這座佛塔，作為一種特殊的紀念，代母親遠遠守望著先皇帝的陵寢。
Upon the green grass of the Qingzhou Ruins of Liao Dynasty within Bairin Right Banner stands the White Tower, built in the Chongxi period of the Liao Dynasty. It’s an excellent example of Liao towers, pure white, tall, noble and elegant. When the Emperor Xingzong was on the throne, his mother with her beloved younger son fought with him over the control of the kingdom. After they reconciled, he issued an imperial ordinance to have the tower built upon the site at which she was held under house arrest formerly as a special memorial, to look over the resting place of the deceased emperor for her.
蒙古高原上一個永恒的名字
An eternal name on Mongolian Plateau
文：莫久愚
東亞大陸的北方草原上，匈奴、鮮卑、柔然、突厥、契丹等眾多的民族如走馬燈般輪番登場，各領風騷。當800多年前成吉思汗在斡難河畔豎起他那“九斿白纛（dào）”后，歷史變成了另外一個模樣。草原上不同地方、不同語言、不同身份的部族、部落的人們，從此有了一個共同的名字——蒙古人，高原上不再有民族變遷和更迭。
On the northern grasslands of East Asian continent, people have appeared and disappeared, such as the people of Huns, Xianbei, Roen, ancient Turks, and Khitans, all leaving behind glorious deeds. When Genghis Khan raised his Sacred Banners on the banks of the Onon River eight hundred years ago, the history of the region changed. People at different places on the grasslands, with different languages, in different groups of different ethnicities now had a common name for themselves—Mongolians. No longer would the ethnic groups come and go.
攝影：張貴斌
呼倫貝爾草原上的“海”——呼倫湖
A “sea” on the Hulun Buir Grassland—Hulun Lake
文：莫久愚
當地人也稱它為達賚湖，意為海一樣的湖泊。弱步湖畔，微風鼓浪，湖水如潮，一遍遍地沖刷著沙灘；濤聲陣陣，浪花堆雪，給人似在海邊的錯覺。湖水曾映照過許多英雄民族的身影。走出嘎仙洞的拓跋鮮卑人在這里由獵手變成了牧人，十三世紀的蒙古人曾在湖水西邊的草原上匯聚起激蕩歐亞大陸的歷史狂濤。
The locals also call it Dalai Lake, which means “lake like a sea”. As you walk along its banks with soft steps, gentle breeze stirs up small waves as if a tide is coming in. They break against the sand on the banks, and kick up spray that falls like small piles of snow, making one feel as if one is at the shore of the sea. The water of the lake has reflected over the years many brave peoples. The Tuoba tribe of the Xianbei people that came out of the Gaxian Cave transitioned from hunting to herding here, and in the thirteenth century the peoples of Mongolia converged on the grasslands west of the lake to make big waves in both European and Asian history.
攝影：烏熱爾圖
綏遠將軍衙署
The General’s Office in Suiyuan
文：莫久愚
呼市新華大街立交橋北一個古色古香的院落，在鬧市的街面上無言地佇立。這是中國保存最好的清代將軍衙署，前為公廨，后為內宅。自清乾隆二年至1918年，一直是內蒙古西部的政治中心，先后有74位將軍在此。成建制的滿洲八旗將士帶著家眷駐在周圍，形成了綏遠新城，呼市的滿族多是他們的后裔。
There’s an ancient compound north of the Xinhua Avenue interchange in Hohhot which has stood there silently for a long time. This is the best-preserved Qing Dynasty general’s office, and the front part of the compound served as a government office and the back as a living place. From the time of the second year of the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty to 1918 it was an administrative centre for western Inner Mongolia. 74 generals in total served there. Manchu generals and officers under the establishment of Eight Banners would bring their wives and children to live nearby, and a new city named Suiyuan was thus formed. Most of the Manchus in Hohhot are their descendants.
應昌路故城
Old city of Yingchang Prefecture
文：莫久愚
達里湖西南一座保存極好的古城，曾是產生過18位皇后、16位駙馬的蒙古弘吉剌部的王城。元王朝在這里走過了最后一程，先后逃離大都、上都的元順帝在這里駕崩后，元朝就終結了。城內荒草中正殿、后宮、街道遺址依稀可見，還有儒學、孔廟遺址和碑刻。中原傳統文化也曾浸潤過這座草原小城。
There is a very-well preserved ancient city to the south-west of Dalai Nur lake which produced 18 empresses, and 16 sons-in-law of emperors, the kings’ city of Khoningrad. It’s the site where the Yuan Dynasty ended: After his escape from the Great Capital (modern-day Beijing) and Xanadu, the Emperor Shundi came and died here, then the Yuan Dynasty came to an end. Amidst the wild grasses one can faintly see the remains of the main palace hall, back palaces, and streets, as well as remains of the Confucian school, temple, and some tablet inscriptions. This is a place that was once soaked in the culture of the Central Plains of China.
美岱召
Meidai Monastery
文：莫久愚
位于呼、包之間的美岱召是目前保留最完好的城廟合一的建筑。寺中的壁畫描繪了一件大事：1583年西藏僧界派出的麥達力活佛主持蒙古地區宗教事務，從此，藏傳佛教開始在蒙古草原鋪展開來，叩敲著一個英雄民族柔軟的內心。
Located between Hohhot and Baotou is the Meidai Monastery, a very-well preserved small city and monastery. A mural inside the monastery describes an important event: In 1583, the Tibetan buddhist circle sent a living Buddha to Inner Mongolia to spread the religion. From that time onwards, Tibetan Buddhism spread widely across Mongolia, into the soft hearts of the heroic people of the region.
攝影：高雪峰
古代牧人的畫廊
An art gallery of ancient herders
文：莫久愚
巴丹吉林沙漠南緣曼德拉山一片十幾平方公里的山坳，有6000余幅巖畫。幾千年間，不同的古代民族都對這里的黑色玄武巖石產生了強烈的創作欲望，或寫實或抽象，或細膩或粗獷，都表現出很高的藝術技法，幾乎囊括了世界上巖畫的所有表現形式。似乎有一種神秘的力量驅使著他們在這里留下自己的印痕。
At the south reaches of the Badain Jaran Desert there is a level ground of over ten square kilometres in the Mandela Mountains, that has more than 6,000 rock paintings. Thousands of years ago, various ancient tribes enjoyed carving their works into the black basalt faces; realistic or abstract, fine or rough, they all show a high degree of artistic ability, and showcase almost every kind of rock painting style in the world. It’s as if some kind of mysterious energy drove them to leave their paintings here.
草原上的召廟
Temples on the grasslands
文：莫久愚
“召廟”是一個蒙、漢語同義復合詞，“召”就是蒙古語“廟”的意思。大概是清朝的皇帝們覺得篤信佛教的蒙古人不會再成為令人生畏的力量，所以召廟的興建受到清廷的特別鼓勵，蒙古草原上召廟林立，到處飄蕩著禮佛的香霧和喇嘛的誦經聲。時至今日，召廟仍然是內蒙古存留最多的古建筑。
These temples are known as “zhaomiao”, with “zhao” being the Mongolian and “miao” being the Chinese word for a temple. The Manchu emperors of the Qing Dyansty believed that keeping the people of Mongolia hooked on Buddhism would prevent them from rising up and becoming mighty again, so they specially encouraged the construction of temples across Mongolia. With a large number of temples sprung up, the fragrant smoke of incense and chanting of monks covered the Mongolian grasslands. In modern times, they’re the most prevalent old buildings in Inner Mongolia.
攝影：高雪峰
玄石坡
Xuanshipo
文：莫久愚
蘇尼特左旗草原有兩塊灰黑色巨石，上面分別刻有“玄石坡”“立馬峰”六個大字。那是明成祖朱棣率大軍北征途中留下的。當時他策馬登頂，見山桃花盛開，情緒很好，遂題寫了石壁。石壁頂端有人工鑿刻的馬蹄印痕，應是永樂帝登臨的紀念。這大概也是漢族帝王在北方草原深處留下的唯一歷史印跡。
On the grasslands in the Sonid Left Banner there are two giant black stones, and upon each one there are three characters inscribed: Xuanshipo (dark rock slope) and Limafeng (horse-summited peak) respectively. These were left by the Emperor Yongle of the Ming Dynasty. When he passed by with his army, he spurred his horse to climb upon the peak, and when he saw the peach blossoms beneath his eyes, his mood was excellent, and he wrote those six characters on the stones. Upon the top of the rocks there were also engraved with a chisel some hoof prints to commemorate the Emperor Yongle’s summiting the peak. These are probably the only traces of a Han Chinese emperor in the depths of the northern grasslands.
歷史名城多倫
Duolun, a famous historical city
文：莫久愚
渾善達克沙地南緣多倫湖畔美麗的小城，曾經擁有18萬人口，是今天的兩倍，號稱“漠南商埠”，上海、天津都有以“多倫”命名的街道。城內匯宗寺前廣場上的“會盟碑”記載著清代歷史上的一件大事——1691年，康熙皇帝召集漠南蒙古49旗和漠北蒙古三大部在此會盟，確立了清王朝在整個蒙古高原的統治。
At the south of the Onqin Daga Sand Land, on the banks of Duolun Lake, Duolun is a beautiful little city, which once had a population of 180,000, double that of its current population. It was called “Monan Shangbu”, meaning “commercial port south of the Gobi Desert”. Shanghai and Tianjin each has a street named “Duolun Street”. In the plaza in front of the Huizong Temple there is a “Meeting Tablet” which commemorates an important event in the Qing Dynasty. In 1691, the Emperor Kangxi convened a meeting for the 49 banners south of the Gobi Desert and the three major leagues north of the Gobi Desert in Inner Mongolia, which established Qing Dynasty’s rule over the entire Mongolian Plateau.
召廟與商業
Temples and business
文：鄧九剛
據1900年統計，整個蒙古高原有1260座召廟。茶葉之路開通之后，宗教的網絡與商業的網絡迅速地重疊，商人巧妙地利用召廟的權威和影響在草原上開展業務。召廟的影響達到哪里，商業的觸角就伸到那里。
According to 1900 statistics, on Mongolian Plateau there were 1,260 temples. After the Tea Road was opened, the religious network and business network quickly overlapped; merchants cleverly used the temples’ power and influence to develop business on the grasslands. Wherever the influence of the temples extended, the reach of the merchants extended.
烏蘭布統草原
Ulanbutong Grassland
文：姜葦
這片草原的核心又叫“將軍泡子”，幾百年前康熙皇帝與噶爾丹部曾在這里有過一場惡戰。聽名字我似乎聞到了兵刃相接時摩擦出的金屬味道，看到馬蹄踏碎草原的殘破景象……然而我看到的卻是紅山倒映，綠草萋萋，秀美旖旎，溫柔寧靜。莫非是歲月沖淡了往昔，沉淀了人本性中的柔情？
The centre of this grassland is also called “General’s Pond”, a site where a few centuries ago the Emperor Kangxi had a fierce battle with Galdan Boshugtu Khan. When I heard the name I felt like I would smell the metallic scent of blades clashing with each other, and see ground, trampled by the hooves of horses... But seeing it in person, it’s full of luxuriant green grass, and red mountains are reflected in the water, and scenery that’s charming, gentle, and calm. Could it be that the passing of time softened the years passed, and instilled a gentle nature in us?
攝影：陳嘉磊
內蒙古“王府”多
Numerous prince houses in Inner Mongolia
文：莫久愚
清朝皇帝認為，云合則能成雨，蒙古部落合則能成兵，為使分散的蒙古部落不能集中到一起，清朝在漠南蒙古設立了互不統屬的6盟49旗。旗與旗之間以山河或敖包分界。旗的首領札薩克，俗稱“王爺”。這些大大小小的“王爺”陸續興建了自己的府邸。所以內蒙古留存的古建筑中，王府的數量僅次于召廟。
The Qing emperors believed that when clouds would join, they could form rain, and when scattered Mongolian tribes would join, they could form armies. In order to keep the Mongolian tribes separate, the Qing rulers established in the region south of the Gobi Desert 6 leagues and 49 banners. They were divided by mountains, rivers, or obos. They were originally ruled by “princes”. All these princes built their own official residences. Thus of the ancient constructions in Inner Mongolia, these “prince houses” are second only to temples.
世界文化遺產——元上都
Xanadu—a world cultural heritage
文：莫久愚
忽必烈始建的元代都城，如同一個王朝的巨大軀體僵臥在草原上，殘垣頹壁訴說著昔日芳華。元代每到夏秋時節，來自西亞、歐洲的蒙古宗王、使節、商人絡繹不絕，發達的驛站交通把這里與歐亞大陸連接在一起。當時文明世界的每一個角落，都能感受到這個國際大都會傳遞出的信息。
The capital city of Yuan Dynasty was founded by Kublai Khan. If a dynasty could lie rigid on the grasslands, then we could say the ruins of crumbling walls recount this grassland capital’s flourishing years. During the Yuan Dynasty, every year from summer to autumn, imperial princes, ambassadors and merchants would come from Europe and Western Asia, continuously and in large numbers. The well-developed post station system linked different areas in Eurasia, with the major cultures of the world at the time all receiving information from this world metropolis.
攝影：莫久愚
喀喇沁王府
Harqin Prince House
文：姜葦
這是內蒙古現存等級最高、規模最大的清代王府。喀喇沁末代親王貢桑諾爾布曾在王府院內開辦學堂、報館、郵政所、電報局甚至工廠，王府書房是當時蒙古族文人的圖書館。近代蒙古族文豪尹湛納希在這里用蒙文譯出了《紅樓夢》《中庸》等經典。
This is the highest-level and largest Qing-Dynasty prince house in Inner Mongolia. The Harqin Prince Günsennorob once opened here a school, a newspaper office, a post office, a telegraph office, and even a factory. The study here was a library for the Mongolian literati. The eminent Mongolian writer Injannaxi made his classic translations of Dream of the Red Chamber and The Doctrine of Mean here, among other works.
公主府
Princess House
文：莫久愚
遠嫁漠北蒙古王公的康熙皇帝四女兒恪靖公主，不耐漠北的苦寒，迷戀大青山下的風光，于是便有了這座“西出京城第一府”。這是我國目前保存最完整的清代公主府建筑群，現已辟為呼和浩特市博物館，也是呼市居民早春時節踏春、觀賞桃花的好去處。
When Princess Kejing, the fourth daughter of the Emperor Kangxi married a local prince in the north of the Gobi Desert, she couldn’t stand the intense cold there, and fell in love with the scenery south of Mount Daqing. Thus, the princess house for her was built here, the “First House” to the west of the capital. It’s now the best-preserved princess house complex of the Qing Dynasty in China, and the land was allocated to the Hohhot Museum, and now is a place for sightseeing which many locals come to observe the peach flowers in early spring.
攝影：燕亮
諾門罕戰場
Nomohan battleground
文：莫久愚
1939年夏秋之間，在新巴爾虎左旗哈拉哈河畔的諾門罕草原上進行過一次大規模的戰爭，是世界反法西斯戰爭的經典戰例。戰后，牧民們不愿驚動逝者的亡靈，從不撿拾擾動草原上的遺物，戰場遺跡被完整地保留下來，坦克殘骸、炮彈、槍械、油桶、鋼盔、水壺……直到紀念館落成。
In the summer and autumn of 1939, a large scale battle took place on the Nomohan Grassland near the the banks of the Halhiyn River, New Barag Left Banner. It’s a classic example of the world’s anti-Fascist wars. After the battle, the herders, unwilling to disturbed the souls of the deceased, left the battleground untouched, taking nothing away. The battleground is preserved completely intact, with the wreckage of tanks, artillery shells, firearms, fuel cans, helmets and water bottles still lying there today, where a memorial museum is set up.
攝影：烏熱爾圖
烏蘭浩特成吉思汗廟
Genghis Khan Temple in Ulanhot
文：莫久愚
二十世紀四十年代，傳聞日本關東軍要在罕山建造供奉日照大神的神廟，蒙古族民眾集資搶先在此建造了成吉思汗廟，祭奠自己心中的神。這是蒙古族自己設計建造的近代建筑，大殿和偏殿是典型藏式風格，藍琉璃瓦圓形穹頂和長方形匾額，讓人想到北京天壇。錯落有致的九個攢尖穹頂，又使人聯想到草原上游牧聚落的氈帳。
In the 1940s, when it was heard that the Japanese Kwantung Army was preparing to build a temple to Amaterasu on Mount Hanshan, the Mongolian residents hurriedly put together money to build a temple to Genghis Khan so they could worship their own god. This is a structure built and designed by the Mongolians themselves: the main hall and side halls are built in a typical Tibetan style, with round domes covered in blue glass tiles, and square tablets for inscriptions, which makes one think of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. There are nine sharply-pointed smaller domes, well-arranged, which make one think of the yurts of the nomadic herders.
達斡爾，一個古老而又年輕的民族
Daur, an old and new ethnic group
文：莫久愚
很多學者認為他們是遼代契丹人的后裔，更古老的歷史似乎可以追溯至鮮卑、室韋。他們務農，還會經常捕魚，定期進山狩獵、伐木放排，是嫩江上游土地最早的開拓者。幾個世紀中，他們一直自稱“達斡爾”，清代幾百年間的內外戰爭中，都有他們勇敢的身影。二十世紀五十年代的民族識別，正式確認了他們獨立的民族身份。
Many scholars believe that the Daur are the descendants of the Khitan people of the Liao Dynasty, and before that, their lineage can be traced back to Xianbei and Shiwei. They farm, and frequently fish, and take regular trips into the mountains to hunt. They participate in lumberjacking, and are the earliest cultivators of the upper reaches of the Nenjiang River. They have called themselves Daur for centries, and participated in internal and external wars during several hundred years in the Qing Dynasty, reflecting their bravery. They were recognised officially as an ethnic group in the 1950s, confirming their independent identity.
攝影：蘇偉偉
勇敢的鄂倫春
The brave Oroqen
文：莫久愚
鄂倫春是興安嶺山地中一個古老的民族，曾被人視作森林民族生活的“活化石”。鄂倫春人是天生的獵手，嚴酷的自然環境鍛造了他們勇敢堅毅的民族性格。1951年，鄂倫春成立了中國第一個民族自治旗，一步跨入了現代社會。上世紀五十年代一首風靡大江南北的《鄂倫春小唱》，讓中國人都認識了這個不足3000人的民族。
The Oroqen are an old ethnic group in Hinggan Range that have been called “living fossils” of those ancient people living in the forest. They’re natural hunters, and the harsh environment has instilled brave and resolute character in them. In 1951, Oroqen became the first autonomous ethnic banner in China, and they stepped into the modern world from primitive society. An Oroqen Diddy was popularly sung nationwide in the 1950s, which introduced this ethnic group of only 3,000 people to other Chinese .
攝影：顧德清
額爾古納的俄羅斯族
Russians of Ergun
文：莫久愚
蒙古族祖先曾居住的額爾古納河畔，如今分布著許多俄羅斯風情的村鎮，中國唯一的俄羅斯民族鄉恩和就在這里。100多年前，闖關東淘金、采伐、修筑鐵路的中國勞工曾過河與俄羅斯人交往、生活，也有許多白俄貴族逃亡到河這邊，兩個民族青年男女之間演繹了一段段愛情，繁衍出一個樂觀豪爽、能歌善舞的族群。
Ancestors of Mongolians once lived on the banks of the Ergun River, where there are now a number of Russian-style villages and towns. China’s only Russian nationality township, Enhe, is located here. More than a hundred years ago, many Chinese workers migrated into North-eastern China to pan for gold, harvest lumber, and build railways. They met and interacted with Russians, lived together with them, and when a number of white Russian nobilities came across the river to flee, the young men and women of the two cultures met, and romances occurred. This gave birth to a group of optimistic and straightforward people who excel at singing and know how to dance.
攝影：麻然信
三支鄂溫克人
Three branches of Ewenki
文：莫久愚
敖魯古雅鄂溫克人飼養馴鹿廣為人知，他們十八世紀初從貝加爾湖的苔原地區驅趕著馴鹿一路游獵，來到大興安嶺北端的密林中安身。更早的時候，嫩江流域的鄂溫克人越過興安嶺進入呼倫貝爾草原，由獵人變成牧人。一百年前通古斯鄂溫克人自額爾古納河西岸遷居號稱“草原第一曲水”的莫日格勒河上游草原。
The Olguyaa Ewenkis are known for raising reindeer. They came from the tundra area around Baykal Lake in the early 18th century, hunting as they drove their reindeer along. They settled when they arrived at the dense forests in the north of the Greater Hinggan Range. Earlier, the Ewenki of the Nenjiang River region crossed the Hinggan Range into Hulun Buir Grassland and turned from hunting to herding. A hundred years earlier, the Turgus Ewenkis came from the west bank of the Ergun River to live upon the grassland near the upper reaches of the Morigele River, which is called “the first curved river on the grasslands”.
攝影：張林剛
布里亞特蒙古人
Buryat Mongolians
文：莫久愚
他們是一個古老的蒙古部族，主要居住在貝加爾湖沿岸，其中部分人二十世紀初進入呼倫貝爾錫尼河畔。他們聰穎、手巧、愛整潔，樂于接受新事物，牧業機械化水平曾長期領先于全國的牧區。他們的服飾輕盈合身，剪裁得體。束寬腰帶，穿翹頭氈靴。夏秋時節，男子戴尖頂呢帽、女子頭系綢巾，冬季則都戴尖頂紅纓帽。
The Buryat people are an old Mongolian group who live mostly on the lands bordering Baykal Lake. A portion of their population came to the banks of the Seney River in Hulun Buir in the early twentieth century. They are intelligent, handy, clean, and happy to accept new things. They used to be in the leading position in mechanization among the pastoral areas of China. Their clothing is light, well-cut and form-fitting. They wear wide belts, and felt boots with points that curve up. In the summer and autumn, men wear pointed felt hats, and women tie silk scarves around their heads. In the winter men and women all wear pointed caps with red tassels on the top.
攝影：烏熱爾圖
科右前旗的滿族
Manchu people in the Horqin Right Front Banner
文：莫久愚
烏蘭毛都草原是一片山地疏林草原，一個個泉眼溢出一條條蜿蜒曲折的小溪，綠地如氈，號稱“五花草塘”。草原西南有全國唯一的以牧業為主的滿族鄉，他們的祖先是隨公主下嫁草原的京城正白旗人。1949年以前，這里的旗人子弟一直保留著尚武、騎射的傳統，因此連土匪都不敢來這里劫掠。
Ulanmaodu Grassland has a sparse forest with small springs giving rise to small creeks all over. It’s blanketed in thick grass, and is an interesting and varied meadow with different flowers. In the south-west of the area, there is the only Manchu township in China that participates in animal husbandry. The inhabitants are the descendants of those who followed a princess from the capital who married a husband beneath her on the grassland, people of Plain White Banner division. Before 1949, the people here maintained their military customs and traditions of archery and horseback riding, so raiders did not dare to attack their settlement.
烏蘭浩特
Ulanhot
文：莫久愚
1947年4月底，興安嶺山地一個叫“王爺廟”的小鎮上，一所舊軍校的禮堂中，來自內蒙古各階層、各團體的代表在這里聚會，選舉出內蒙古自治政府，率先走上了民族區域自治之路。也使遼闊的內蒙古草原與“鞏固的東北根據地”連在一起，有力地支援了人民解放戰爭。小鎮就此改名“烏蘭浩特”（紅色的城）。
At the end of April in 1947, in the hall of an old military school of a small town called “Wangye Temple” in the Hinggan Range, representatives of groups from all levels of Inner Mongolia came together to elect the government of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. Thus Inner Mongolia took the lead in selecting the route of regional autonomy of ethnic minorities. This linked together the vast area of Inner Mongolia’s grasslands with the revolutionary base areas of North-easten China, and confirmed their strong support of the War of Liberation. As a result, the name of the town was changed to “Ulanhot” (red city).
攝影：高麗